god of storms and weather, bringer of life-giving rains and
devastating hail to the altiplano; the name given to this imposing
volcano in the Aymara tradition of venerating particular peaks
as the physical manifestations of their various deities.
south toward evening, a great storm blows up to our west,
with livid streaks of lightning jabbing the plain. Fortunately
for us in our tiny tents, the ominous clouds are no more than
a dramatic distant threat. We sleep dry under cold stars;
Tunupha permits our passage, dominating the horizon for two
days as we venture southward into the volcanic vastness of
the Bolivian desert.